The World of Cocoa

The cacao tree (Theobroma Cacao) is grown in the tropics in a band between 10 to 20 degrees north and south of the equator, sometimes called the "Cocoa Belt". The tree is often grown in the shades of other trees. It can be as tall as 40 feet (12 meters), and has fruits (pods) which are more than on foot (30 cm) long. The fruits may be brownish-yellow to purple, and contain 20-40 seeds or cacao beans in a pink, sweet-sour pulp.

The cacao tree is cultivated in many countries, but today the leading suppliers are Ivory Coast, Ghana, Indonesia, Nigeria, Brazil, Cameroon, Ecuador, Dominican Republic and Papua New Guinea. Other well-known manufacturing countries are Madagascar, Malaysia, Mexico, some Caribbean islands like Grenada and Cuba, and some Pacific islands like Samoa. For more information see the International Cocoa Organization.

Four major types of cacao are cultivated: Criollo, Forastero, Trinitario and Nacional. The Criollo tree originates in Mexico and Central America and gives very high quality cacao beans and is mainly cultivated in South and Central America. The yield is fairly low. A number of varieties of Criollo are cultivated; in Venezuela well-known varieties are Chuao, Porcelana, Puerto Cabello and Carupano. Criollo beans are often mixed with other varieties of cacao when making chocolate.

The Forastero is very much cultivated in Africa, but also in Central and South America and constitutes approximately 80% of world production of cacao. This tree grows faster and gives higher yield than other types of cacao. A number of varieties are cultivated, in Venezuela excellent varieties are Carenero Superior, Caracas Natural and Rio Caribe. The Amenolado variety produces delicate, aromatic beans and is cultivated primarily in Ecuador.

The Trinitario is a crossbreed between the Forastero and Criollo, and is mainly cultivated in Central and South America and Asia. It has its aroma from Criollo and its resistance to disease and its productivity from Forastero.

The Nacional is mostly cultivated in South America west of the Andes. It is prone to disease and difficult to grow, but has an excellent aroma.

The flavor of the cacao beans is not only dependent on the variety, but also on the soil, temperature, sunshine and rainfall. It is now possible to buy chocolates made with cacao beans from one single region and thus compare the aromas; these chocolates are often called specialty chocolates, in contrast to ordinary chocolate which are made with mostly cheap cacao beans from several regions and with more than one cacao variety.

The Aztecs used the cocoa bean to produce a beverage called xocoatl. The cocoa bean was introduced to Spain in the 16th century. The first chocolate bar was made in Switzerland in 1819, and in 1875 the milk chocolate was invented. For more information about this history of cocoa and chocolate, see Godiva's Chocolate History page.



The cacao fruits are opened and the pulp and seeds are transferred to larger containers. This is either performed by farmers, plantation workers, or in large cocoa factories it can be done by machines.



The cacao beans are later transferred to wooden crates or baskets with banana leaves in between and on top to enable an optimal fermentation. The duration of the fermentation depends on the variety and is from 2 to more than 7 days. The length of the fermentation also affects the aroma, so if well-developed aroma is wanted the beans are fermentation for a longer time.

The fermentation process transforms the flavor to what we associate with cocoa and chocolate. Without the fermentation process there will not be any chocolate flavor.

When the fermentation is terminated the cacao beans are sun-dried. At this stage the smell of cocoa can be observed. In small plantations the fermented beans are spread by hand, and later turned over by hand or foot. In Central America the beans are dried on wooden floors which can be covered by a sliding roof if it starts to rain. On larger plantations electric dryers are used.



The drying process takes 1-2 weeks, and during that period the color changes from reddish brown to dark brown. The beans are then polished by a machine to obtain an improved visual appearance. Previously the beans were polished by "dancing the cacao beans"; the dancers polished the beans with their feet in a dance-like manner.

The cacao beans are then packed for domestic consumption or for export to cocoa and chocolate manufacturers.

The cacao beans are sometimes treated by alkali in a process called "Dutching". This process removes some of the acidity of the beans and gives a more smooth flavor and a darker color of the cocoa.

Before making cocoa and chocolate the beans are roasted to develop the final chocolate flavor. The temperature and time of roasting affects the flavor and color of the chocolate. Finally the shells are removed ("winnowed") from the roasted beans, and the beans are ready for making chocolate paste, cocoa, cocoa butter and chocolate.

In many cacao-producing countries the cacao beans are locally used for making "cocoa tea". The fermented beans are ground to a fine paste, mixed with spices, and rolled into balls which are dried (in Jamaica and some other countries the ground cocoa is rolled into sticks instead of balls). These balls (or sticks) are used for making "cocoa tea", which in other countries is called a "hot cup of chocolate".



The cocoa balls contain both the cocoa powder and the cocoa butter which is naturally present in the cacao beans (the cacao beans contain approximately 50% cocoa butter) which means that the flavor of the final "tea" is very rich and similar to making hot chocolate using a dark chocolate bar dissolved in hot milk/water mixture.

Several types of cocoa balls are made; you can find variations in size, in the quality of the cocoa beans used, in the amount of grinding, and in the content of spices.

When used the cocoa balls are dissolved in boiling water, strained, and sugar and milk is added to taste. Usually one ball gives 1-2 cups of final "cocoa tea".



High quality cocoa powder must be easily dissolved and have good flavor. The beans used for the manufacture of cocoa are selected especially for this purpose.

After roasting and winnowing (removing the outer shell from the cacao beans) they are ground making cocoa liquor. The heat which is generated melts the cocoa fat thus generating a liquor, and sometimes additional heating is employed. The liquor hardens to unsweetened chocolate when it cools below 95 degrees F / 35 degrees C.

Pressure is employed to the cocoa liquid (while slightly heated) to remove some of the fat which is also called cocoa butter. The remaining cocoa solids contains 10-25% cocoa butter depending on brand. The solids are then ground to cocoa powder. Cocoa used for cooking is normally unsweetened.

After roasting and winnowing (removing the outer shell from the cacao beans) they are ground making cocoa liquor, see the left side of the picture.

Pressure is employed to a part of the cocoa liquor (slightly heated to be in a liquid form) to obtain cocoa butter (fat), see the right side of the picture. Cocoa liquor and sugar are mixed and ground down smaller and smaller for a long time. More cocoa butter is added in addition to emulsifier and flavoring agents, especially vanilla. During the continued grinding the mixture becomes smooth. The next step in the process is called conching: mixing, heating, agitating and aerating for 24 hours to obtain the final velvet-like texture and less bitter flavor.

Before moulding the chocolate into bars or squares it must be tempered. Tempering is done by mixing the melted chocolate at a controlled temperature until the right form of tiny chocolate crystals are formed. This gives the chocolate the right appearance and texture. Then the chocolate is molded and cooled rapidly.

The main types of chocolate are white chocolate, milk chocolate, semisweet chocolate, bittersweet chocolate and unsweetened chocolate. These types of chocolate may be produced with ordinary cacao beans (mass-produced and cheap) or specialty cacao beans (aromatic and expensive) or a mixture of these two types. The composition of the mixture, origin of cacao beans, the treatment and roasting of beans, and the types and amounts of additives used will significantly affect the flavor and the price of the final chocolate.

White chocolate

Chocolate made with cocoa butter, sugar, milk, emulsifier, vanilla and sometimes other flavorings. It does not contain any non-fat ingredients from the cacao bean and has therefore an off-white color. In some countries white chocolate cannot be called 'chocolate' because of the low content of cocoa solids. It has a mild and pleasant flavor and can be used to make Chocolate Mousse, Panna Cotta and other desserts.

Milk chocolate

Sweet chocolate which normally contains 10-20% cocoa solids (which includes cocoa and cocoa butter) and more than 12% milk solids. It is seldom used for baking, except for cookies.

Dark chocolate

Sweetened chocolate with high content of cocoa solids and no or very little milk, it may contain up to 12% milk solids. Dark chocolate can either be sweet, semi-sweet, bittersweet or unsweetened. If a recipe specifies 'dark chocolate' you should first try semi-sweet dark chocolate.

Sweet dark chocolate

Similar to semi-sweet chocolate, it is not always possible to distinguish between the flavor of sweet and semi-sweet chocolate. If a recipe asks for sweet dark chocolate you may also use semi-sweet chocolate. Contains often 35-45% cocoa solids.

Semi-sweet chocolate

This is the classic dark baking chocolate which can be purchased in most grocery stores. It is frequently used for cakes, cookies and brownies. Can be used instead of sweet dark chocolate. It has a good, sweet flavor. Contains often 40-62% cocoa solids.

Bittersweet chocolate

A dark sweetened chocolate which must contain at least 35% cocoa solids. Good quality bittersweet chocolate usually contains 60% to 85% cocoa solids depending on brand. If the content of cocoa solids is high the content of sugar is low, giving a rich, intense and more or less bitter chocolate flavor.
Bittersweet chocolate is often used for baking/cooking. If a recipe specifies bittersweet chocolate do not substitute with semi-sweet or sweet chocolate. Please ensure that you buy the correct type! European types of bittersweet chocolate usually contains very large amounts of cocoa solids, and some of them have quite bitter taste.

Unsweetened chocolate

A bitter chocolate which is only used for baking. The flavor is not good, so it is not suitable for eating. Use it only if a recipe specifies 'unsweetened chocolate'. It contains almost 100% cocoa solids, about half of it might be fat (cocoa butter).